The planets seemed to align for Chanel on Monday night as Matthieu Blazy unveiled a show that perfectly balanced spectacle and intimacy at the Grand Palais in Paris. The event, a testament to the designer’s vision for the brand, was a dazzling case study in rejuvenation — elevating Chanel to new heights while maintaining the timeless elegance it’s known for.
Blazy’s first full collection for Chanel took place in the recently renovated glass-and-steel building, which had been transformed into a cosmic wonderland. With the theme “Universe of Chanel,” the Grand Palais became a planetarium of sorts, complete with glowing orbs reflecting off a glossy black floor, marbled with swirls of colored pigment. The otherworldly atmosphere was reminiscent of the dramatic show sets created by Karl Lagerfeld, the legendary designer who had led the house for over three decades.
In the front row, a star-studded lineup of celebrities including newly minted Chanel ambassador Nicole Kidman, her daughters Sunday Rose and Faith Margaret, and fellow A-listers like Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Ayo Edebiri, and Pedro Pascal, all looked on in anticipation. The energy inside was palpable, as the guests — including a few galaxy-brained fashion enthusiasts — were ready for a night of cosmic grandeur.
At exactly 8:14 p.m., the audience was treated to what could only be described as fashion’s own version of a moon landing. Blazy, only the fourth official creative director in Chanel’s 115-year history, made his long-awaited debut with a collection that both honored the brand’s legacy and boldly looked to the future.
A Bold Start:
Ahead of the show, Blazy had teased a minimalistic approach with a series of black-and-white images shot by legendary photographer David Bailey. Those images, which hinted at clean, stripped-back lines, suggested a shift towards a more pared-down aesthetic. However, that was just one part of the story.
The first look — a checked wool pantsuit — immediately made a statement, but it wasn’t your typical Chanel fare. The jacket had been chopped off at the waist, an homage to the founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, and her habit of borrowing clothes from her lover, Arthur “Boy” Capel. The look was a perfect fusion of modernity and nostalgia, paying tribute to the house’s origins while feeling fresh and forward-thinking.
Blazy’s approach to reinterpreting the classic Chanel silhouette came through in a range of inventive ways. Tailoring was soft yet structured, with unexpected twists that disrupted expectations — oversized collars, cropped hems, and inventive cuts that hinted at deconstruction. It was Chanel’s storied heritage, but reimagined for a new era.
The collection’s use of color also played a key role in this transformation. The traditional palette of black, white, and tweed was joined by shades of metallic silver, deep blues, and iridescent fabrics, all evoking the celestial theme of the evening. The garments shimmered and glistened under the planetarium-like lights, giving them an ethereal quality that perfectly matched the cosmic mood.
Cosmic Couture:
As the show progressed, it became clear that Blazy’s vision for Chanel was one of balance — balancing the avant-garde with the traditional, the old with the new, the minimalist with the maximalist. Gowns with layers of delicate tulle were paired with tailored blazers; structured pantsuits were softened by flowing skirts. Accessories also played a crucial role, with statement earrings, oversized pearls, and futuristic handbags completing the looks, each carrying a sense of otherworldliness.
And, of course, no Chanel show would be complete without its signature tweed, which Blazy reimagined with metallic threads, giving the classic fabric a contemporary edge. Even the iconic Chanel suit was transformed, its sharp lines softened and played with in ways that felt fresh, yet undeniably familiar.
A New Era for Chanel:
Blazy’s debut collection not only paid homage to the legacy of Coco Chanel but also signaled the dawn of a new era for the house. It was a bold statement that Chanel could evolve without losing its soul. The designer’s vision, inextricably linked to the cosmic theme of the show, felt both universal and intimate, reflecting the timeless appeal of the brand while propelling it into the future.
As the models made their final pass through the runway, the audience was left to ponder what the future holds for Chanel — a brand that has proven time and time again that it is not just of this world, but beyond it.
Both Coco Chanel and her contemporaries were known to be clients of Charvet, the prestigious French shirtmaker, and for his Spring 2026 collection, Matthieu Blazy paid homage to this heritage by collaborating with the brand to create key pieces. One standout was an oversized white tuxedo shirt, which he paired with a swooping black skirt, blending classic tailoring with a modern, fluid silhouette. Another eye-catching piece was a cropped, striped men’s shirt worn with a dramatic scarlet ballgown adorned with feathery tendrils, juxtaposing the sharpness of menswear with the softness of couture.
Blazy spoke passionately after the show about the influence of Chanel’s revolutionary spirit, noting, “I was interested in the revolution she brought, and there was no way back. She decided for herself what she could be, and she could be both faces of the same coin.” In many ways, Blazy’s collection echoed this duality — combining Chanel’s androgynous leanings with a highly seductive approach to eveningwear.
The balance between masculine and feminine was central to the collection. Blazy masterfully channeled this energy through silky separates and slithering gowns that clung to the body, in a graphic palette of beige, ivory, and black. These sensual pieces seemed to dance with the spirit of Paris itself, resonating with the city’s timeless celebration of both elegance and allure. The collection felt like a love letter to the French capital — as daring and sophisticated as the city it hailed from.
